Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
